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Introduction You step off the JR Yamanote Line. It’s just another station at first. Then the shutters open. Giant LCD screens flash. Maid flyers are pressed into your hand before you even speak. A robotic...

Introduction It starts with a smell. Grilled meat. Smoke. Soy sauce sizzling on coals. You take a step in and boom—Tokyo vanishes. Welcome to Omoide Yokocho. Tucked beside Shinjuku Station’s west exit,...

Introduction Shinjuku hits you hard. Step out of the station—and you’re in it. Neon. Crowds. A wall of sound and light. It’s Tokyo on overdrive. But if you look past the surface, Shinjuku is more...